The many sides of Split
Split, Croatia is many thing. At first, I only knew it as the place my friend and travel buddy, David, wanted to visit. I'd already been to nearby Dubrovnik but the flights were cheap and the company excellent so why not? It wasn't until we spent a couple of days that I realized just how much this little seaside city had to offer.
For one, it is the very definition of a living museum. Our excellent hostel, Backpackers Fairytale, was just up the road from an area marked on the map as Diocletian's Palace. This being Europe, it is not really that big a thing to encounter a palace, castle or other royal-type abode. I figured there would be a museum, possibly with era-appropriate furnishings and a heavily landscaped garden inhabited by an errant cherub or two. I figured wrong. This is not that kind of palace.
This palace was not one structure. Or a couple of adjacent buildings. This is a whole damn city. The Roman Emperor Diocletian decided he wanted to retire before he got killed, the usual fate for Roman Emperors. It was the 4th century, he had the money and manpower so he decided to build a retirement home somewhere pretty and with good weather (not unlike all those Florida retirees). Since he was originally from the Dalmation Coast, he chose to build near Salona, its administrative center. But this was not to be just his home. It also had to provide him with a work space, a public square and housing for his entire garrison- really the original work/live concept. In reality, it was more a fort than a palace and a really big fort at that.
Today, it makes up almost the entirety of Split's old town. Approximately 2000 people still live within its walls. The windy streets once patrolled by the Emperor's guards are now home to a multitude of souvenir stands, restaurants and at least two rubber duck shops.
There are four entrances into the complex. The one closest to us, the Golden Gate, is guarded by a 28 ft statue of Croatian bishop, Gregory of Nin. He is the person who opposed the Roman church's edict that all masses should be in Latin and introduced services in the Croatian language. Today, he is seen as the defender of Croatian culture and owner of a lucky toe.
For reasons that were never made clear to me, it is considered good luck to rub his big toe. Its golden hue is a result of many decades of people making wishes while rubbing the charmed digit. It's not just this statue of Gregory either. Other versions throughout Croatia have met the same fate.
She pointed out a sphinx that we had walked by many times without notice. It is approximately 3500 years old and one of a dozen brought over from Egypt by Diocletian. He was building his own mausoleum and wanted to cover all his bases, religion-wise. The Christians came later and decapitated most of his cohorts but the one on the Peristyle somehow survived. Perhaps he had a go at the lucky toe.
Lest you think Split is just a historic destination, it is not. It is also very much a party city. We were there during weekdays so we did not get to witness it at its peak but there were enough context clues to indicate that this town goes off, perhaps a bit too much.
During our stay, we enjoyed a BYOB sunset cruise:
My personal favorite, the hipster Accademia Ghetto Club, where David ended up being gifted a handmade crocheted hat (not by the demon dude but by a very cute Croatian girl):
What we did not experience was the typical Brit stag/ hen party behavior terrorizing so many European cities. It is evident that it very much a thing based on the menu of fines dotting the city center. Things have gotten to the point where local authorities have had to ban things as varied as passing out in public, swimming in fountains and projectile pooping.
Lastly, and of utmost importance to this nerd, Split is Meereen!! As in the third slave city freed by Daenerys of the House Targaryen, the First of Her Name, The Unburnt, Queen of the Andals, the Rhoynar and the First Men, Queen of Meereen, Khaleesi of the Great Grass Sea, Protector of the Realm, Lady Regnant of the Seven Kingdoms, Breaker of Chains, and Mother of Dragons. That Meereen.
It is where she was forced to chain up two of her dragons after Drogon allegedly killed a goat herder's kid.
Some people, and by some people I mean historians, might say that this is actually the substructure of Diocletian's palace, considered to be the best preserved part of the complex. The cellars were originally used to store food and wine, as evidenced by a large wine press that is still visible. But who cares about food and wine when you have dragons!
A little further afield, you have the actual city of Mereen. This would be where our girl Dany decided to crucify 163 slave masters.
If you want to nitpick, you could say that this is actually Klis Fortress, a medieval fortification that was the furthest reach of the Ottoman Empire.
You could also say that it offers one of most spectacular views of Split and the surrounding valley imaginable.
It is well-maintained, can be easily reached from Split via public transportation and offers endless photo ops. This place should swarming with tourists. There should be a "no pooping" sign at every guard tower. Yet, on this day, David and I had the place pretty much to ourselves.
I'm not complaining. It was wonderful to be able to freely explore the grounds and discover all the hidden rooms without feeling crowded. I just don't understand why this place isn't getting more love. It's Meereen ffs!
And it's not like they aren't leaning into their GoT bonafides. They even have a QR code you can scan to introduce dragons into your pics.
Whatever the reason, I'm just glad that our walking tour guide recommended we visit. It was one of my favorite parts of our brief trip to Split.
I suspect if we had more time, there would have been many more favorites and discoveries of all the things Split has to offer. But suffice it to say that even if it's just a historic party cities with dragons, it's a damn impressive one.
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