That's Nice.

The view from the Chateau

The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art

Niki de Saint Phalle's angels enjoying a lovely day

I'd like to start this post by thanking everyone who through posts, e-mails, phone calls, etc. shared their kind words and remembrances about my baby, Amber Starr. It is tough being home, looking towards her favorite chair and finding it empty, but it is good to know that she touched so many of those who knew her.
Now back to the travel business on this here travel blog. The scene: August in Amsterdam. We had just enough time for one more European jaunt before having to pack our bags and return to a land without last minute cheapo flights. We decided we ought to make it worthwhile, we wanted somewhere relaxing, yet glamorous, but it had to have things to do and see, and we wanted good food. Nice wines wouldn't hurt. I, of course, wanted to hit a new country. The answer to all our demands came via one of Amsterdam's wonderful discount book stores. Weeks earlier, I had spotted a book on Provence, the southern region of France, priced at a lowly 5 euros and figuring I was bound to go there someday, I tossed it into my shopping basket. Within its pages were descriptions of legendary beaches, world class museums, charming restaurants, renowned vineyards and even a section on how to do an easy day trip to Monaco (new country alert!). So when Diana, my excellent travelling companion, called to suggest Nice as our last destination, I immediately dropped the phone, packed a bag, grabbed the book and ran out the door...most assuredly, not in that order.

Diana, Rada and I only had three days to take in all that the French Riviera had to offer, obviously not enough time, but it was a task that we were up for. We started off day one by wandering through the too-cute-to-be-believed streets of old Nice. It was slow moving at first, as every hundred metres or so, one of us (full disclosure: it was usually me) had to stop and snap photos of the surroundings. This situation only deteriorated as we took the elevator up to the Chateau, a series of castle ruins set upon a hill overlooking the entire city. The panorama of the Mediterranean coastline combined with the city's intense concentration of ochre-colored roofs had us battling, camera in hand, what appeared to be every single tourist in Southern France for a better shot. Yet the view was so beautiful, the sky so blue, the day so perfect that none of us seemed to mind the jostling. After soaking in the view, we slowly descended the hill, strolling by gardens, a Jewish cemetary and yet more scenic overlooks, until we had reached the Place Rosetti. This small square is home to Fenocchio Glacier, which is quite possibly the most fantastic gelatto stand...ever! They serve well over a hundred flavors and are not afraid to be a bit creative with their selections. To vouch for that, I can boast that I had one scoop of the cactus flavor (a bit citrusy, but overall very refreshing) and another of the spicy chocolate (smooth chocolate with a nice afterkick). Afterwards, I came to the conclusion that if they ever opt to franchise this place around the world, I am simply going to buy an extra-large mumu and be done with any pretense of dieting. Following our gelatto fix, we opted for a cultural one and visited Nice's Modern Art Museum. As with all the museums in Nice, the entrance was free. I am not sure if this is a seasonal thing but I was not disposed to question it, lest they change their minds. The highlight of the museum for me was a room dedicated to the works of Niki de Saint Phalle, whose Angel sculpture I have shown here before. By the time we left the museum, the sun was beginning to set. It was already time to find an outdoor cafe or two (or five), make plans for the next two days and toast to what was already proving to be a perfect choice for the last hurrah.