Country #72: Escape from Estonia

Um, nice try...but no.

Uspenski Cathedral

Shopping at the Kauppatori, aka Market Square

Ice breakers, hanging out in the off-season
Havis Amanda, she represents Helsinki and its rebirth

Temppeliaukio Church, better known as the Rock church




Sibelius Monument, honoring the composer Jean Sibelius


Helsinki Cathedral


The guardians of the Central Railway Station

Even their construction barricades are cool!!

I have to admit that when I booked my trip to Estonia, I did briefly consider the idea of doing a day trip to Finland. I went as far as looking up the schedules and the prices, but in the end, decided that with only four days to play with, I would be selling Tallinn short in favor of upping my Country Count, something I seriously try to avoid. I like to think that travel is more about really getting to know a place and a people than it is about checking items (or in this case, countries) off of a list. And then I got to Tallinn. As I might have subtly mentioned in my last post, unless you are really into time- travelly theme parks or walking amongst the tour groups of the world, four days is entirely too much time to devote to this city. I had hoped to stay in Estonia and do a day trip to a nearby national park or an abandoned Russian military installation, but the hostel had cancelled all of its outings and public transportation seemed iffy, at best. So, at this point, the idea of visiting Helsinki (not to mention, adding #72) suddenly became unbearably attractive. Add to that, a couple I met upon arrival at the hostel who on their third day in Tallinn were high-tailing across the Gulf of Finland and suggesting I do the same and I was sold. The following morning, I power-walked over to the Viking Lines ferry terminal and minutes later walked out with a ticket for the next day and an immense sense of relief. It was a fleeting sense, however, since immediately afterwards, I realized I had no guidebook, no printouts and no clue as to what to see or do once I got there, but somehow, for someone who has been accused...more than once... of obsessive travel planning, I was ok with it. Sort off.

It is possible that the look on my face, when I walked into the Helsinki tourist information office the next day, could have been described as panicked, although I would prefer to think of it as justifiably concerned. Perhaps sensing this, the very kind woman at the counter not only loaded with me with more brochures than I could read in a week (and all for free, something unheard of in the Netherlands) but she also set about creating an itinerary that would more than keep me busy for the next 10 hours. First off, I was to do a cruise around Helsinki's barrier islands. There were several options, but she assured me that the Sunlines boats had the most scenic route. Not having anything to compare it to, I don't know if that was true, but I (and the pictures above) can attest to the fact that it was one seriously scenic cruise. One hour in and already I was loving Helsinki. Next on my new itinerary was a tour of the city. My options here were a standard bus tour, which brought back chilling flag-waving visions of what I had left behind in Tallinn; a hop-on, hop-off tour which had some potential and a public tram, which went by all the same sights without narration, but happened to be much cheaper. I'm thinking it is obvious which one won out. With my armful of brochures and the help of some extremely friendly Finns, I hopped on the cheapo tram and got an opportunity to see some of Helsinki's most popular sights. My favorite turned out be one of the most unique churches I have ever encountered. It is named the Temppeliaukio church , and is famous for walls made entirely of excavated rock. What I liked most about it is was the shadows cast by the natural light which is used to illuminate the church. Another highlight was the Sibelius Monument, a series of steel tubes which alternately reflect the sea and park that surround it. Once I had finished the "tour", I spent the rest of the time just wandering the city, taking in the sights, meeting new people and most importantly, rejoicing in the knowledge that coming to country #72 had been the absolute right call. Even without a guidebook.