Cruising into Country #137

It may seem disingenuous that this is the fourth time I write about how I am not a cruise person but then go on to describe my latest sailing. At what point must someone accept that they are, in fact, a cruise person. I hope four is not the cut-off point because even as I type this in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, I will loudly proclaim that me no likey cruises. In the macro sense, they are horrible global citizens invading small islands and coastal cities with masses of people that overcrowd the streets and make life difficult for locals (see Dubrovnik, any and all of the Carribean islands, etc) without contributing enough into the economies. Also, despite protestations to the contrary, they are big time pollutants. In the micro sense, as a cruise passenger you never get enough time in any of the ports and you are forced into close quarters with people you may not normally choose to associate with (as in the kind of people who really like line dances).

Q: So why are you on a 22 day voyage, you stinking hypocrite? 

A: Hear me out. As I add more countries to my count, the remaining nations become increasingly difficult to visit. Some have complicated logistical issues (ie limited flights, time-consuming/ tricky visa procedures), some have geopolitical issues making them unsafe and others have very limited touristic infrastructure so that getting around becomes prohibitively expensive. Most of the countries I am missing are within Africa, where all three of those conditions often exist. I had to recently cancel a planned trip to Ghana because of the cost and difficulty in obtaining the necessary visa. 

With all of that in mind, it kind of makes sense that a cruise along the western coast of Africa, with stops in four countries I’d never been would manage to overcome all of my cruise-related objections. It would also give me the opportunity to travel with my bougiest of friends. We have been friends for over 30 years but my travel style is just not for her. It is well documented that I prefer low budget traveling. The problem is my horror at being surrounded by entitled materialistic snobs at luxury hotels is equally matched with her disdain for shared accommodations and the people that inhabit them. A cruise could provide a good middle ground (although I immediately saw on the NCL app that there were machinations afoot to swap my chosen inside cabin to a balcony suite).

We met up in Capetown and had one day before boarding the Norwegian Sun. Fun fact: the first cruise I ever did, from Valparaiso, Chile to Buenos Aires, Argentina- the one where I ended up breaking up with a boyfriend mid cruise-was aboard this very same ship. 

Much to my friend’s dismay, her plotting fell short and on our departure day, we were assigned a roomy yet balcony-free inside cabin. We started out with a sea day on our way to the first port of call, Walvis Bay, Namibia. I initially dreaded this down time but if I’m being honest, the ship had plenty of activities to keep us busy, the people I've met are a lively cross-section of ages, nationalities and backgrounds and the unlimited drink package certainly didn’t hurt. That first day flew by, even with some rough weather. To quote George Costanza- the seas were angry, my friends. All that aside, we were soon pulling into country #137.

While it may now be debatable whether or not I am now a cruise person, one thing is certain. I am not, nor will I ever be a cruise excursion person. They are overpriced, overcrowded and just generally yucky. I much prefer to book directly with local tour operators. We started things out with a bang by booking with MC 4x4 tours. 

Anchor's restaurant: the perfect place to wait for your tour to begin.

After an initial mix-up about the pickup time, we met up with our guide for the day, the inimitable Andre. He is a character that loves what he does, sings Elvis songs like nobody’s business and will not hesitate to yell “C’mon mate” at slower drivers that get in his way.

We set off along the Walvis Bay lagoon with stops at a flamingo-less flamingo lagoon (it was mating season and they were off getting busy) and the pinkest pink lake I’ve ever seen. The color is created by a micro-algae called Dunaliella salina, that produces a red pigment to protect itself from the sun and salt. 

(Insert flamingoes here.)

Seeing pink sand nearby, it would be natural to conclude that the same micro-algae is on the move but it is actually caused by the mineral composition of the sand. Iron oxide has coated the quartz grain over millions of years, giving it this crazy, ever-changing hue. 

We entered into the protected Sandwich Harbour area, where it didn’t take long before spotting two young Springboks. This was where the real fun began. This is one of the few areas in the world where the desert meets the oceans. You have vast sand dunes butting up against the Atlantic Ocean. During low tide, it is possible to drive between the two. The tide at this moment was low-ish. We watched as other vehicles got to a certain point and turned back. Those vehicles did not have Andre.  C’mon mate, we’re going all the way! We proceeded with a minimum of 3 tires firmly in the Atlantic until the path opened back up. From there, the only way to go was up. We climbed massive dunes, followed by 3 other MC vehicles until we reached some of the most majestic look out points these eyes have ever seen. To call the views stunning is the greatest of understatements. As I was taking photos, I already knew they would never be able to fully capture what was in front of me. 

The wind shifting the sands made the dunes look like a living breathing entity welcoming us to revel in its beauty. Up and down the dunes we went, in awe of our surroundings.

One thing I haven’t mentioned is that my friend had come with a plan. Someone/ sometime in Santorini realized that tourists were willing to pay big bucks to be photographed in dramatic setting wearing long flowing dresses being carried by the wind. These are known as “flying dresses” and the trend seems to be spreading, including to Namibia. Not content to risk a potential poor color selection, my friend purchased a flying dress and carried it across many a time zone to get her flying dress photoshoot. This plan was explained to the very game Andre who immediately knew where this was going to take place. At every spectacular stop, my friend asked if it was dress time yet. Nope, there’s a better place coming up. Even when we passed a beleaguered guide photographing a woman in a mermaid costume (?!) with her own flying dresses lying in wait, Andre preached patience. 

Then we arrived at the aptly named Kodak point. In a place of breath-taking beauty, this managed to be the standout. She changed into the dress and took her place in line with others waiting to be photographed at the magic spot. They were wearing jeans and t-shirts. She, on the other hand, had 12 feet worth of fabric soaring around her. The concern that she would take off ala Mary Poppins was very real. Thankfully she remained earthbound and her photographic vision was achieved, much to the confusion of one woman that commented on the lovely bride.

Dunes, Andre and Elvis: it just doesn't get better than that

How do you possibly top a day like this? You don’t but having a picnic in the desert complete with a pink champagne toast certainly doesn’t hurt. 

On the way back to the ship, we learned of the region’s salt producing industry and were even gifted a salt chunk as a unique memento.

After the tour, we still had a little time to kill and a need for strong (and free) WiFi so the Raft bar, sitting atop stilts, right by the cruise pier was the perfect place to finish our all too brief visit to Namibia. Damn this ship for giving us so little time but also thank you for getting me to country #137.