Khiva: Charming sand castle or maddening labyrinth?

To visit Uzbekistan is to visit four cities: Tashkent, Bukhara, Samarkand and Khiva, usually in that order. Of course, you could be more adventurous and hit the smaller towns. Or you can be rushed and skip one or two, although that would be a shame. Or you could- stay with me here- try to figure out a way to accommodate visits to neighboring Turkmenistan and Tajikistan, while hitting the big four. In my particular case, I had made arrangements to begin a tour in Turkmenistan on my birthday. I would have to cross the land border near Khiva on June 2nd and exit via the Bukhara land border 4 days later. The logistics involved meant that I would have a couple of extra days either in Bukhara or Khiva while waiting for my tour to begin. Not the worst thing that could happen, as I'm always finding myself running out of time wherever I am. At least that was my thought process. 

After a couple of days in Bukhara, I took an old Russian sleeper train to tiny Khiva. It was part transportation/ part cultural experience, particularly when an attendant woke me up a couple of hours prior to arrival to take away my pillows and blankets. Seeing as "But I want keep sleeping" wasn't amongst my Uzbeki phrases, I had no choice but to give them up and watch in wonder as my neighbors took this as their cue to pull out an enviable breakfast spread.

It was early afternoon when I arrived and checked into the charming Carousel Hostel. The desk clerk seemed surprised that I was staying 4 nights but whatevs. 

I had enough time to grab a quick lunch and wander a bit before my 3pm walking tour. My first impression was that this walled city resembled a magical sand castle and I couldn't wait to learn my way around its many little winding streets.

Upon meeting our guide, the first thing he had us do was leave the walled city. I had entered via the gate closest to my hostel, not through the "tour bus" gate. That would be the gate where you purchase the 100,000 som (or about $12) ticket that allows you into most of the historic sites. The pass is good for 24 hours and in theory is necessary to enter the Itchan Kala, or walled city itself. Thankfully, this news did not seem to have reached the keepers of the other gate, which I entered freely all 4 of my days there. 

Our tour began with a visit to the Mohammed Amin Khan Madrassa, the largest Madrassa not only in Khiva but in all of Central Asia, once housing up to 260 students. Today, it houses a luxury hotel.

Mohammed Amin Khan had even greater plans for his Madrassa, including the world's tallest minaret. It was to stand between 70-80 meters, besting the Qutb Minar in India. Unfortunately, MAK passed away sometime around the 29 meter mark and that's where the work ended. Today, the squat beautifully tiled Kalta Minor Minaret is one of the city's most famous landmarks. 

Another highlight was the Juma Mosque. The 18th century structure is unique thanks to its carved wooden pillars, some of them brought in from older mosques. 

We continued to the Kunya Ark Citadel, which was once the home of Khiva's ruler, his staff and his many many wives.

There was a quick stop to watch the guide's friend making bread in a traditional round clay oven, which seemed like impossibly tough work in 90+ degree heat. 

We concluded the tour at the 19th century Toshhovli Palace (or Stone Palace) and its impressive Harem courtyard, which was the first part of the palace to be built. Gotta keep your ladies happy. 

At the conclusion of the tour, there was the usual time for recommendations. I asked what I should do for my remaining three days. The look the guide gave me was what one would expect upon learning a good friend had just sent all their money to a Nigerian prince. Clearly, a mistake had been made. He struggled for suggestions but finally conceded that this was entirely too much time for Khiva. As in Bukhara, I had already covered most of the highlights in a 3 hour walking tour. 

I mulled over this as I watched the sunset over the city but decided I would just take the opportunity to really go in depth. 

For example, I could find all the sculptures of people just kind of going about their lives that dotted the city. 

Father and Son street musicians

Oh, I can blow all right...

 Couple and their Cantaloupe.

I could visit monuments that were not included in the walking tour, such as my favorite, the Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum. In a country of amazing tile work, you really have to shine to stand out and the tomb of Khiva's patron saint does just that.  Pahlavan Mahmud was a 13th century poet, philosopher and unbeatable wrestler, known for his commitment to the poor. His burial place became a pilgrimage site leading to the construction of this glorious building in 1701.

I could climb to the top of the Islam Khoja Minaret, the tallest in the city (sorry MAK). Standing at 57 meters tall and with 175 very steep spiral steps, it proved to be quite the workout.

But at least the view is fantastic. 

So imagine my surprise on Day 3, when returning to the hostel I saw that the ancient ferris wheel I assumed no longer worked was actually spinning.  For less than $1, drink in hand, I got an even better view of the city with zero effort. 

That's right, that was my 3rd night. Despite my initial concerns, the time was going somewhat quickly. On my second day, I had hired a driver to take me to five ancient fortresses and one lake, which I will cover in a separate post. Day 3 was spent roaming around plus the mausoleum and the ferris wheel. Mainly roaming around. This is not a big city. I really should have gotten it figured it out by then. But I didn't. Sure, the statues served as helpful landmarks but whenever I had a specific destination in mind, I had to rely on Google Maps, which was quite confused itself. If you told me that someone was reconfiguring those blasted little alleys in the middle of the night, I would believe you. 

My final day, I decided to explore outside of the walled city, where the streets made a bit more sense. I visited the Nurullaboy Saroyi palace, built in the 1904, when all the real estate inside the Itchan Kala was taken up. It was the home of the last Khan who ruled between 1910-1920 and is absolutely gorgeous. 

However, there is not much else of touristic interest outside the walled city so I returned for yet more wandering around. 

Shivit Oshi is unique to Khiva. It is a dill infused pasta, normally topped with meat and served with tangy yogurt. 

I had walked every street countless times and was no closer to being oriented so I had to get creative. Remember the bread lady? I figured I could do that too so I took a bread making class. 

But I outsourced the oven part...

A high wire show in the courtyard of one of the Madrassas. Sure, why not? Actual notes from my travel journal: "Now, I'm waiting for a tightrope walker show where I fear I may be the only spectator. If more people don't show up, I'm leaving. People have arrived, sat down and left. What in the Flying Wallenda's is happening here? Ok, 4 other people here. Should be starting in 5 minutes. 6:31-nope. All locals here. This is bizarre. 6:40-tightrope is still noticeably empty. 6:41-men in funny pants have arrived. 6:54- it is over."

One final evening of trying to figure out how the indecipherable labyrinth of the walled city to get back to my hostel? But of course. 

In the end, was 4 days too many in Khiva? Yes. Undoubtably yes. I paid to knead fricking dough. That should tell you everything you need to know. But is it a charming Silk Road oasis that rewards repeated explorations? Also, yes.