Country #132: What do you mean everyone already knows about Uzbekistan?

Thoughts after a couple of days in Tashkent, the capital of my 132nd country, Uzbekistan: I am fricking Magellen!  I, and I alone have discovered this super cool country that also happens to be cheap and really easy to get around in. Wait until I tell the others!! I'm going to be a travel hero!!  Looking back, I could be almost justified in my thinking. A lot of people I talked to about my travel plans had asked some variations of "Where the hell is that?" Granted, most of them are a product of the US educational system so geography is not really a strong suit but still it added to the Uzbek mystique. Factor in the empty dorm room at my hostel and only five attendees for the free walking tour and this felt like truly uncharted waters. 

Then I got to Bukhara. It had a lot of travel bonafides: over 2000 year ago city, beautifully restored UNESCO world heritage site, major stop on the Silk Road... and more tour groups following raised umbrellas than a cruise port in high season. What the what? Turns out my undiscovered gem had very much been discovered. Nay, invaded.  In May alone, the country had broken all previous records with over 1 million visitors. This is in large parts thanks to a concerted effort by the government to encourage tourism. One central part of this campaign was simplifying the visa process. Now many countries either need no visa at all or can get a simple e-visa online. For US citizens, if you are under 18 or over 55, there is no visa requirement and we don't really need to dwell on which of those loopholes I used.

Point being, Bukhara was packed. Shortly after checking into the wonderfully-situated Dervish Hostel, I wandered into the city to join a free walking tour . I had a little time to kill so I strolled around taking in the sights and souvenir stands. Man alive, were there a lot of souvenir stands. 

I was in the Lyab-i-Hauz complex. This 16th century square has a pool as its central element, which is not surprising when you learn that the name itself means "by the pool" in Farsi. There used to be many of them throughout this city, providing both water and a breeding ground for bacteria and various plagues. The pools lasted until the 1920's when the Soviets had most of them filled in. 

Thankfully, they spared the architecture. Right by the pool is the Madrasa of Navir Divan-Begi. It is highly unusual in that Islamic architecture normally forbids any depictions of humans or animals, yet here right on the entrance, there are some mythical looking birds carrying white deers and a man in the sun design which is repeated in a madrasa in Samarkand. 

The tour began at the nearby Magok-i-Attari Mosque, one of the oldest structures in the city. Built in the 9th century on the site of a Zoroastrian temple, it was originally a bazaar before becoming a mosque. It is one of the few things pre-dating the Mongol invasion of the 1200's. To travel Uzbekistan is to learn that very little survived Genghis Khan and his merry band of pillagers. It is theorized that this mosque, which sits in a sunken area (the name means "scented pit" in Farsi) had fallen into disuse and was covered by mounds of dirt, thus escaping their notice. Only the facade remains, with some of the original ornamentation. Today, it has come full circle to the bazaar days and houses a carpet museum and shop. 

We continued past active archeological digs and a number of ancient bazaars, still bustling with shoppers and souvenirs vendors. 

We were on our way to the Ulugh Beg Madrasa. Ulugh Beg was a name one encounters all over Uzbekistan. He was the grandson of Amir Temur, the guy who conquered the destructive Mongol empire and founded the Timurid dynasty. Ulugh was a noted astronomer who founded madrasas emphasizing scientific studies. The one we were standing before was his first one, built in 1417 and was relatively simple in design. 

In contrast, the Madrasa directly across the road, the Abdulaziz Khan Madrasa was way more flashy. That's because it was built a couple of hundred years later, in 1652 with the goal of upstaging Ulugh Beg's. Unfortunately for Abdulaziz Khan, he was dethroned before he could complete it but you get the idea of where he was going with it. 

Did you know that when you have two Madrasas across from each other, they are known as "kosh" or "eyebrow" Madrasas? Not a particularly interesting fact but I just got my brows microbladed and at the moment, I could easily challenge Eugene Levy to a brow-off.

A couple more bazaars later, we were at the city's crowning jewel, the Poi-Kalyan complex. The minaret, built in 1127 joins the Magok-i-Attari mosque in surviving the Mongol invasion. While the latter survived by subterfuge, it is theorized that the minaret was just too beautiful for Genghis Khan to destroy. More likely it was the fact that at 150 feet tall, it made for a convenient spot from which to toss your enemies.  

The Kalyan Mosque is still operational and is one of the largest in all of Central Asia.

At sunset, the temperature cools and the domes shimmer, making it a popular hangout with tourists and locals alike. 

How popular, you ask. One evening, I saw what I thought was a balloon vendor. It was only after I watched her for a bit that I realized she was actually more of a balloon renter. For the price of 10,000 som, just under $1 US, you could rent the whole bunch for your very own Instagram photo shoot. I've never seen this before, but it's kind of brilliant. So much so that the wily entrepreneur got my 10,000 som.

Another sunset must-do is the Chor Minor, located a little outside of town. During the day, there is not much to see, as it is the gatehouse to a now destroyed Madrasa but come the golden hour, the four towers put on their most photogenic face. 

But back to the tour, once we left the Kolyan complex, we continued past the Ark of Bukhara, which is a 5th century fortress. By this point, it was almost 7pm so we could not enter but I did return later in my stay.

We were more successful with Bolo Hauz Mosque, which coincidentally is most photogenic at sunrise before they turn on the fountain and you can get a photo of all the columns reflected in another of the remaining pools. 

Reading any list of things to do in Bukhara, you notice that everything is best visited at either sunrise or sunset. I never did quite figure out what you are supposed to do with all those in between hours.

The time stamp on this photo: 6:23am!!

We concluded the tour at the Ismail Samani Mausoleum, the 10th century resting place of the leader of the Samanid Empire and still a site of Islamic pilgrimage. 

We had hit all the major sites in the span of a 3 hour walking tour, which is great. However, I had 3 days in Bukhara and I had already seen almost everything on my first day. I know I live by the motto that there is never enough time to see everything but in a shocking plot twist, two days would have been more than enough time. 

Being able to enjoy a city in calmer, less frenetic manner was a treat. In the remaining days, I walked around, a lot, starting bright and early to beat the crowds. So many crowds.

I did the Bukhara countryside tour, only instead of paying $99 to my mortal enemies, Viator, I spent approximately $7 on Yandex (think Uzbek Ubers) to copy their itinerary. More on that in another post...

I attempted to take both a pottery class and a miniature master painting class with zero success.

I spent a leisurely afternoon at the delightful Joy Chaikhana with a super cool lady I'd met during the walking tour in Tashkent. 

On my final sunset, I visited the Ark. This 5th century fortress has acted as a Zoroastrian temple, royal palace, defensive fortification and administrative center. Safe to say, its had some ups and downs. In 1220, the Mongols did their thing, killing everyone inside, looting the treasure and demolishing the entire complex. It was rebuilt in the 16th century only to be destroyed again in 1920 by a Soviet bombings. Today, it is mostly in ruins but houses a couple of museums and of course, a whole lot of shops. 

Its chief attraction is the view of the Kalyan complex. At this time, it was crowded with people waiting for the perfect photo.

It was probably crowded earlier as well, seeing as this cat has escaped its bag, run down the road and put up a billboard. There is no denying that word has gotten out about Bukhara and Uzbekistan in general. That said, in those quiet hours before (or after) the souvenir vendors take up every inch of space and the tour groups come swarming through, it is a beautiful, mystical place that is absolutely worth a visit, just tell them Berti Magellan send you.