Country #108: Hanging in Skopje 2.0

Have you ever been so pleasantly surprised by something that it made you angry? Or maybe just slightly annoyed? I know this sounds weird but hear me out. As part of my quest to hit all the countries, I'd booked a flight to Skopje, Macedonia. This in itself was a kind of consolation prize because I actually wanted to go to Ohrid for some sunning and funning. Those flights, in the middle of July were way too expensive so I'd settled on the larger, less water-adjacent city.

After checking into the wonderful Lounge Hostel, I'd realized that I had left my European power-adaptor plugged into the wall of the Belgrade airport and had to rush out to replace it before the stores closed. It's possible that this situation had put me into a disgruntled state of mind. How else explain my reaction when I first saw a massive Alexander the Great presiding over this very imposing square.  As I gaped at all the perfectly restored neo-classical architecture around me, my first thought was "This is fricking gorgeous! Why the hell didn't anyone tell me about this earlier?" It was as if every passport holder I had ever met had gravely betrayed me.

How had I never heard of this land of the million monuments?! I've spent several decades criss-crossing this planet and have heard over and over about this must-see city or that can't-miss attraction but Skopje huh? And why doesn't anyone have an adaptor in this town? A guy in the hostel had lent me one but I'm pretty sure he was going to need it back. What was I going to do for four days with a dead phone? Oh, the rage.

Fortunately, time resolves all. A visit to a very off-brand Apple store settled my charging problem and a fantastic free walking tour answered the reason for this conspiracy of silence I'd been subjected to.

No one had told me about Mega-Alexander and his fancy fountain'ed square for a very good reason. Although all the architecture surrounding the square may look very important and historic, it is about as authentic as Epcot's Chinese pavilion.  

Ok, that may be a bit harsh. Macedonia has a rich history dating back to the 6th Century BCE. They have been occupied by the Persians, Romans, Ottomans and even their Serbian neighbors. It goes to reason that they could have actual bonafide neoclassical buildings. And they did....up until 1963, when a massive earthquake destroyed nearly 80% of the city.

At that time, Tito was in charge and the Communist Brutalist architectural style was all the rage. The city was rebuilt in that severe cement-heavy style, much of which is still visible today.

Now, fast forward to 2010, when the government decided it was time for a facelift and a project called Skopje 2014 was announced. The plan was to build 20 new buildings and 40 monuments, at a cost of 80 million Euros. The goal was to draw tourists while also appealing to Macedonian's nationalistic pride by celebrating its past. And if they could piss off the Greeks in the process, so much the better

Since before Balkan Wars, the Greeks have been dead-set against their northern neighbors using the name Macedonia. They feel that it creates confusion between them and the Greek region that goes by the same name, which is why the country is officially referred to as The Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia (FYROM). They also feel that the Macedonians have unfairly appropriated Alexander the Great, whom they believe was actually Greek. This dispute is why that gigantic statue in the square is vaguely named "The Equestrian Warrior".

As can be expected, the Macedonians think the Greeks are full of shit, have no desire to change their name and will happily provide proof as to why Alexander was Macedonian (something to do with him, already a military legend, almost not being allowed to participate in the Olympic games because he was not Greek enough).

The re-branding project was controversial from the get-go for a myriad of reasons. Some accuse the government of trying to create a mythology that may not be exactly accurate (ie: see the Equestrian Warrior). Others lament that they are trying to create a kitschy baroque theme park instead of embracing modernity. But the majority of critics focus on one key issue: the price. From the initial estimate of 80 million euros, the price tag is now hovering around the 500 million euro mark and accusations of corruption are more numerous than the bronze statues.  Funnily enough, no one has an issue with the fact that we are now in 2018 and the project with 2014 in its name is still not completed. 

For a bit more authenticity, emphasis on bit, you have to cross the Stone Bridge.

Mind you, the first thing you see once you get to the other side is a monument to Philip, Alexander the Great's dad. He is giving his best 'power to the people" salute to his son across the river Vardar. Philip, or as he is officially known, the "Ancient Warrior", stands in the area of the Old Bazaar.

Going as far back as the 12th century, this was the city's commercial heart. The Ottoman influence remains in its warren of tiny streets, mosques and caravanserai. One thing that I particularly loved is that the tradition of having dedicated streets (as in one street is nothing but jewelry stores, another is all fabric shops, etc) is still being followed.

Am I the only one that is over this whole umbrella canopy thing already?

I had not counted on the weather being as hot as it was so I was wandering around trying to find the shorts/ tank top street. I eventually asked a guy who appeared to be the Old Bazaar ambassador-slash-coffee shop tout.  He, evidently a man with all the answers, suggested that I go to his tailor friend who could turn the jeans I was wearing into shorts.  But I didn't want jean shorts. And I liked my jeans as they were, just in cooler climates. That was when I noticed that my new buddy was wearing dress pants that had simply been cut off and hemmed at the knee. I should probably be more careful when choosing my advisors. 

I eventually found a breezy pair of pajama-like pants and got a stalker thrown in for free. How that man managed to pop up from every single street corner for the next hour remains a mystery to me but his repeated invitations to have a coffee clued me in that he was probably a non-drinker so I had no choice but to seek shelter at Pivnica Temov, the city's first brewery.

As the sun started to set, the Old Bazar started to shut down but across the river, in Skopje 2014, things were just getting started.

This was the first night of the World Cup, so all the bars had wheeled out big screen tv's. Macedonia hadn't quite made it into the games but neighboring Croatia had and that was good enough. I only wish I could have been there a couple of weeks later when they made it all the way to the final.

Hammering home the fact that subtlety was never the goal, come nightfall, the Equestrian Warrior's fountain is bathed in a panoply of colored lights. It's like the Balkan Bellagio up in there.

During the walking tour, our guide addressed the Skopje 2014 controversy. While he conceded a lot of the points raised by the critics, he pointed out that before the redo, this square was a shifty desolate place at night. Now, you find couples, young and old, families, tourists and a half dozen vendors flinging light-up flying toys into the air.

During the Colorful Revolution, where the protestor's weapon of choice was the paint gun, this arch became a favorite target.

The following day, I had signed up for a half-day tour to explore some more of what Macedonia had to offer. When the owner of the agency picked me up in his car, I assumed he was taking me to a central meeting point to join the rest of the group. He was not. I was the group. I had somehow lucked into a private tour.

Rush hour in Skopje

We started off by driving into the Vodno Mountains in the direction of the Millennium Cross. There was a hiking trail visible but it was insanely hot and there is a reason that the fine people of Macedonia built a cable car.

Built in 2002 to celebrate 2000 years of Christianity, it is visible all over the city, particularly at night when it is lit up.  I was there more for its location, which provides a great view of the city and surrounding mountains.

My guide had given me an hour and a half to explore, not really because you need that much time but more likely because one of his drivers had flipped over his tour van the previous day and he was stuck in insurance company hell. I took advantage of this time to stroll along some of the trails (meaning technically I did hike the Vodno mountains).

There was also a small cafe which I had all to myself, once a visiting tour group had departed.

My "tour" was supposed to continue to a traditional Macedonian village but a quick glance revealed that the village was about as authentic as the city's ancient architecture. It was meant as the lunch stop but I'd already gorged on ice cream at the mountaintop cafe so we went to the Church of St Panteleimon instead. Wikipedia tells me there are famous frescoes inside but seeing as there was no one around to open the door for me, I will have to take their word for it.

Next stop: Matka canyon, home to a huge manmade lake, some monasteries and loads of caves.

In order to get to the caves, you take a small boat. From the looks of it, there is also a way to walk there but it was still hot and why was I going to ruin my perfect lazy streak now.  Also, if you are hoping to get the cool lighting effects that have been installed in the cave, (or, you know, see anything) you would need to wait for a tour boat to show up since it is the Captains that have the keys to the lighting controls.

Conversation I had with the guide after spotting some movement in the cave.
Me: "Are those bats up there?"
Guide: "No, don't worry."
Me: "I wasn't worried, it is just that I love bats. I think they are the coolest."
Guide: "Yes, there are many many bats"

As we drove back to Skopje, my guide gave me some recommendations on how to spend the rest of the day. At the top of the list, The Kale Fortress. Built sometime in the 10th or 11th century, it offers fantastic views over the city.

I ended up returning here later in the day during the walking tour, when our guide lamented the neglected state of the site. On the one hand, it had been spared any historically dubious renovations but on the other hand, would it kill them to do some landscaping and put in a bench or two.

There had been plans to build a museum showcasing the archeological finds that have been unearthed on the site, but this led to protests. Ethnic Albanians believe that the land should belong to them, based on the finding of Ilyrian artifacts, and forcibly stopped the building of the museum. (Note: From my brief visit, I have come to the conclusion that everything in Skopje leads to a protest. At the moment, there was talk of an imminent name change to The Republic of North Macedonia. Because of this, there were protestors camped out in front of the Parliament building...and by camped out, I mean there were picnic tables, loaded with food and wine, music was playing and old couples were dancing. )

Another cause for quibbling is a dead saint. Mother Theresa was born in Skopje and the city has erected a monument and museum on the spot where she was baptized. This seems like it should be pretty cut and dried. The problem is that her parents were Albanians. This is why I kept spotting Mother Theresa tchotchkes in all the Albanian souvenir shops and why they claim her as theirs.  The final word should probably go to the woman herself who said "By blood, i am Albanian, as citizen i am from Skopje. By nationality, i am from India. By religion i am Catholic. I belong to the world by my calling. With my heart, i belong to Jesus." Way to non-commit there, Terry.

I finished off my visit to country #108 in the same way I had started it, hanging out in Macedonia square. I was taking the walking tour guide's advice and enjoying a dinner of traditional vegetarian Macedonian dishes (note to vampires: this stuff is delicious but it has all the garlic. Avoid at all costs)

As I sat there, once again, I marveled at my surroundings.  They may be manufactured and possibly not historically what they purport to be but they are lovely to look at, regardless. Anyways, who says that time has to be frozen in Amber. Go back a couple of decades and Dubai is nothing but desert. 

While I totally understand the concern over wasteful spending, particularly in a country that is not wealthy by any means, I am sure I am not the first visitor who is taken aback by how nice it is. This is why I am putting it out there, as a public service message, so that the next person who drops in doesn't find themselves standing next to an Equestrian Warrior muttering "What the fuck? Why did no one tell me about this?"